The trial

The comparison people argue about has one good head-to-head study behind it: A multicenter randomized trial of ketoconazole 2% and zinc pyrithione 1% shampoos in severe dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis, published in Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology in 2002 (PubMed 12476017 · full text PDF).

Design: open, randomised, parallel-group, multicentre. A 2-week run-in, a 4-week treatment phase, then a 4-week follow-up with no treatment. 343 subjects were recruited, with roughly 171 assigned to ketoconazole 2% and 160 to zinc pyrithione 1%.

The results, which almost nobody quotes:

Ketoconazole 2%Zinc pyrithione 1%
Improvement in total dandruff severity score at week 473%67%
Recurrence after stoppingSignificantly lowerHigher
Overall clearing at end of treatment and follow-upFavoured ketoconazole
Side effectsMinimalMinimal

The authors concluded ketoconazole 2% was significantly superior. That conclusion is fair. But look at the size of it: six percentage points on the severity score. Both shampoos worked, and worked well, on people with severe dandruff.

The more useful difference is the second row. The gap widened after treatment stopped. Ketoconazole held the result better than zinc pyrithione did. If your complaint is “it comes back the week I stop,” that row is the one that speaks to you.

The catch nobody mentions

The trial used ketoconazole 2%. In the US, over-the-counter ketoconazole shampoo is 1%; 2% is prescription-only.

And the two strengths are not interchangeable. A separate Karger study comparing them found that at both 2 and 4 weeks, ketoconazole 2% was significantly superior to 1% for reducing flaking and Malassezia density.

So the honest chain is: 2% beat zinc pyrithione, and 2% beat 1%. Nobody has run OTC ketoconazole 1% head to head against zinc pyrithione 1%. The 73% figure is not a promise about the bottle you can buy without a prescription.

What 1% does have is a placebo-controlled trial of its own: twice-weekly ketoconazole 1% shampoo gave a good or excellent result in 74% of patients versus 20% on placebo at 2 weeks, and 80% versus 23% at 4 weeks. It works. It is just not the strength that won the comparison.

What Cochrane says about the evidence

Cochrane’s 2015 review of topical antifungals for seborrhoeic dermatitis picked up the same trial and reported a lower remission-failure rate for ketoconazole than zinc pyrithione, RR 0.85 (95% CI 0.72 to 0.99) — a real but modest effect whose confidence interval only just clears 1.0.

The review’s wider verdicts matter more than that one number:

  • Evidence for ketoconazole versus placebo or a steroid: low quality
  • Evidence for ciclopirox versus placebo: moderate quality
  • Evidence for zinc pyrithione: very low quality
  • Limited evidence that any agent is more effective than others within the same class
  • Very few studies assessed anything beyond four weeks

That last point deserves emphasis. Dandruff is a lifelong relapsing condition and the literature almost entirely stops at one month. Anyone telling you which shampoo is better over years is not reading a study.

This is why the page is rated mixed and not strong. There is one decent head-to-head trial, and it is thinner underneath than the confident internet consensus suggests.

The Head & Shoulders footnote

If you are comparing bottles internationally, note that Head & Shoulders in Europe and the UK largely no longer contains zinc pyrithione. It was classified as a category 1B reproductive toxicant under EU CLP rules, which triggered an automatic cosmetics prohibition under Commission Regulation (EU) 2021/1902, effective 1 March 2022. Formulations were switched, commonly to piroctone olamine.

Worth stating plainly: that is a hazard classification driving a regulatory rule. It is not a finding that the shampoo stopped working, and the US has not followed. But it does mean “Head & Shoulders” names two different products depending on where you are standing.

What we would actually do

  • Mild, occasional flaking: zinc pyrithione or selenium sulfide 1%. Cheap, effective enough, easy to keep using.
  • Persistent flaking, or it returns fast after you stop: ketoconazole 1% OTC, used at the label’s contact time, twice weekly for four weeks.
  • Still there after four weeks, or severe: this is the point to ask a doctor about ketoconazole 2% or ciclopirox, rather than buying a fourth bottle.
  • Thick adherent scale: descale with salicylic acid first, or the antifungal cannot reach the skin. See scalp build-up vs dandruff.

All of these are commodity products. Price differences between brands carrying the same active at the same percentage are packaging.

If the scalp is painful, losing hair, or crusting rather than flaking, the comparison above is not your question — read crust on your scalp instead.

Sources

Researched, not tested. We have not run these shampoos against each other and this is not a product review. General information, not medical advice.